Paris Couture Week, which wrapped up last Thursday, was a celebration of nostalgia, escapism, and innovative creativity, with twenty-nine houses showcasing their Spring-Summer 2025 collections. The event brought together designers, celebrities, and fashion lovers for a week that explored historical references, modern escapism, and even social and political commentary through haute couture.
A Journey Through Time
Many designers looked to the past for inspiration, combining vintage references with modern sensibilities. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative mind behind Dior, drew from “the creativity of past centuries”, presenting designs inspired by 1950s Yves Saint Laurent, such as draped skirts, trapeze dresses, and crinolines. This collection paid homage to the rich legacy of couture while introducing new forms and silhouettes.
Daniel Roseberry, artistic director at Schiaparelli, also explored time travel in his collection. Inspired by 1920s and 1930s ribbons, his designs prominently featured corsets, a nod to the haute couture of the past, alongside modern twists on classic silhouettes. Kendall Jenner was among the models showcasing his work, highlighting how the past and present can seamlessly merge in couture.
Escapism Through Fashion
For many designers, couture serves as a form of escapism—an opportunity to create beautiful, fantastical worlds far removed from current events. Zuhair Murad, drawing from his experiences in Lebanon, presented a collection inspired by a tropical island, symbolizing a peaceful refuge from the chaos of the world. The collection conveyed a sense of utopia, offering a serene contrast to the harsh realities of modern life.
Franck Sorbier, on the other hand, took a more direct approach to current global conflicts in his show, “Symphonie Barbare”. This theatrical performance featured “warriors of peace” and “barbarian” men, symbolizing the duality of conflict and peace. The show ended on a hopeful note with Sorbier himself emerging in a black anorak that read “peace and love”, delivering a powerful message on global unity.
Addressing the Future
The future of fashion also played a role at Paris Couture Week. Viktor & Rolf presented a collection that riffed on the rise of artificial intelligence (AI), sending out 24 variations of the same dress. Each was announced with a robotic voice, showcasing a human interpretation of the limitless possibilities AI presents for fashion.
Changes Among Fashion’s Elite
Amidst the couture glitter, musical chairs among top designers continued. Stella McCartney announced her departure from LVMH, while Glenn Martens was appointed artistic director of Maison Margiela, succeeding John Galliano. Speculation also surrounded Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, with rumors suggesting a potential shift to Jonathan Anderson of Loewe.
Chanel too is undergoing a leadership transition, with Virginie Viard’s sudden departure in June, leaving the brand’s latest show crafted by its creative studio. Matthieu Blazy, who was appointed as Viard’s successor, is not expected to present his first collection until September.
Couture Traditions and Bold New Designs
As tradition dictates, many collections concluded with bridal looks, but this season’s gowns took a modern twist. From short in the front, long in the back styles to Jean Paul Gaultier’s feathered, transparent gown, designers continued to push the boundaries of haute couture.
This year’s Paris Couture Week offered a visual feast of creativity, nostalgia, and escapism, reaffirming the importance of fashion as both an art form and a mirror to our rapidly changing world