Glenn Martens made a powerful entrance into haute couture with his debut Fall 2025 Artisanal collection for Maison Margiela. Unveiled at Le Centquatre in Paris—the same venue where Martin Margiela staged his final show in 2009—the collection honoured the house’s avant-garde roots while embracing John Galliano’s theatrical legacy.
A Setting Rich in Legacy
The show began in a venue steeped in symbolism. Broken tiles underfoot and distressed posters lining the walls evoked the raw, layered aesthetic Maison Margiela is known for. This nostalgic backdrop perfectly mirrored the brand’s ethos of reconstruction and impermanence.
Opening looks paid direct homage to Margiela’s 2009 farewell show. Translucent polyurethane gowns and coats, along with reinterpretations of Margiela’s iconic face masks, set the tone. These transparent forms allowed Martens to introduce his narrative of decay, beauty, and revival.
A Blend of Galliano Drama and Martens’ Edge
As the show progressed, Martens intensified the drama. Metallic gowns that resembled molten ore shimmered as models glided down the runway. The collection then veered into Galliano territory, featuring extreme corsetry and ornate floral motifs with a weathered, antique feel.
Martens deftly layered these historic textures with Margiela’s trademark deconstruction. Patchworked textiles formed trenches, bodycon dresses, and flared skirts that felt at once regal and fragmented. Every detail carried the weight of time—some garments appeared as though unearthed from ruins, including jewel-studded polo tops and rugged denim referencing the “oldest jeans” ever found.
Leather pieces were rigid and raw, while flowing fabrics were scorched and frayed. This tension between fragility and resilience coursed through the entire show.
A Message of Renewal
Despite the collection’s decaying motifs, Martens ended on a note of rebirth. A menswear look—blazer and skirt—was adorned with emerald jewels and paired with a chrome mask, hinting at transformation. Another standout, a floor-length dress encrusted in golden embellishments, echoed the treasures of a shipwreck.
Floral tulle looks bloomed into a garden of possibilities, including one headpiece that resembled a full bouquet. Martens’ signature use of translucent plastic reappeared in a technicolor coat, breathing fresh life into the material.
The final look—a lime green ensemble with a ruffled bodice and flowing skirt—symbolised growth and optimism. This solid burst of colour closed the show with clarity: a vibrant new chapter for Maison Margiela has begun.