Geneva Watch Week 2025 saw an extraordinary display of craftsmanship and creativity. With 60 global brands participating at Watches & Wonders and several independents exhibiting across the city, this year’s lineup was rich in both heritage and innovation. Here are the five standout timepieces that defined the event.
1. Rolex Land-Dweller: A Bold New Chapter
The Rolex Land-Dweller emerged as one of the most buzzed-about launches of the week. As an entirely new model, it blends bold aesthetics with the brand’s iconic design language. A honeycomb dial, fluted bezel, and a reimagined Flat Jubilee bracelet offer a striking look that still honors Rolex’s legacy.
Technically, the Land-Dweller is a marvel. Seven years in development and protected by 32 patents, it debuts the 7135 Manufacture movement—featuring a patented dual-wheel escapement. Offered in 36mm and 40mm case sizes and crafted in steel, platinum, and Everose gold, its price ranges from $13,900 to $63,500.
2. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P: Pure Elegance
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava 6196P brought timeless charm to Watches & Wonders. It showcases a rose-gilt opaline dial, small seconds subdial, and “obus”-style hour markers in white gold. The refined 38mm case, only 9.33mm thick, reinforces the Maison’s commitment to understated luxury.
Flip the watch over, and a sapphire caseback reveals the 30-255 PS manually wound movement. The caliber fills the case beautifully, emphasizing precision and clean finishing. It’s a quintessential dress watch, ideal for collectors who appreciate minimalism with a touch of grandeur.
3. Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets: Art Deco Revival
Cartier revived its iconic Tank à Guichets in dramatic fashion. First released in 1928, the digital-style display now returns with a modern update. Time is shown through two apertures—hours at 12 o’clock and dragging minutes at 6—preserving its historic utility with new finesse.
Available in platinum, rose gold, and yellow gold, this year’s edition also includes a limited asymmetric version. With its slanted hour and minute windows at unconventional positions, Cartier successfully blends heritage with a forward-looking aesthetic.
4. Vacheron Constantin Solaria: The Most Complicated Wristwatch Ever
Pushing the boundaries of mechanical mastery, Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Solaria is now the most complicated wristwatch in existence. It boasts 41 complications—including five astronomical functions—and is composed of 1,152 components. Despite its complexity, the 45mm case remains under 15mm thick, making it surprisingly wearable.
The Solaria took seven years of development and a full year of assembly by a single master watchmaker. Following the 2023 Berkley pocket watch, this piece further elevates Vacheron’s status in haute horology.
5. F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif: Innovation in Every Detail
Independent watchmaker F.P. Journe impressed with the new Chronomètre Furtif, a stealthy time-only model crafted from tungsten carbide alloyed with tantalum. The 42mm case and integrated bracelet exude strength, while the Grand Feu enamel dial adds an ethereal touch with its laser-engraved numerals revealed only under certain light.
Through the caseback, the 18k rose gold caliber 1522 is displayed, offering 56 hours of power. Though not a limited edition, the Furtif will see limited production starting in fall 2025, priced at around $98,780 USD. It’s a testament to Journe’s fearless creativity.
